2011 UF1 Rules
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CLASS # 1 REALISTIC
Motor : 21.5 or silver can
ESC : non boost, stock setting... ROAR list
Tires : rubber only, F1 scale
Body : F1 with scale front and rear wing...
Width : 180mm maximum
Battery : 2 cell lipo only
2 wheel Rear drive Only
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CLASS # 2 OPEN
Motor : ANY
ESC : ANY
Tires : ANY F1 scale tire ( No sedan tires, no pan car tires )
Body : F1 with scale front and rear wing ( please keep it looking real :)
Width : 200mm maximum
Battery: ANY
2 wheel Rear drive Only
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* Both these classes will run separately...
* Both will be scored separately , but compete together in the points series...
* There can ONLY be ONE UF1 Champion...
* You will be able to run both classes , but before the qualifying you will have to choose
which class you want to be scored for... This will allow us to double our track time each day :) if you want...
You can race in the Realistic class one day, and Open class another day and still collect points towards the Championship...
We will also reduce the amount of races to 8 for the season, at 8 different tracks in Southern
California.. spreading the love and also reducing the amount of races makes
it a little more special and easier for people to attend...
2 minute Qualifier :
Two minute fast lap qualifyer... No more then 5 cars on the track at one time...
This will determine whether you run in the "A" or "B" main for the rest of the day...
Scoring System :
1st= 25 : 2nd = 18 : 3rd = 15 : 4th = 12 : 5th = 10 : 6th = 8 : 7th= 6 : 8th= 4 : 9th = 2 : 10th= 1
NO dropped races... All races will count...
It is possible for a top driver to miss two races and still win the series...Just like in real F1...
In case of a tie, the driver with the most wins will win.... If that is also a tie , the driver with the
most 2nd place finishes, and so on....
Times from the "A" main and the "B" main will be calculated together as if they all ran together... You can
score top points from the "B" main if you had the best time... The advantage to making the "A" main
is that you will be racing with faster, cleaner racers...
10 minute Races :
DNF and DNS receive no points...
You must complete 8 laps as to not be a DNF
12 foot Starting Grid :
Another slight change will be at the starting grid... for the winter series we lined up the cars in a
single file, 7 feet apart... I still think this is a good idea in that it rewards the racers a
slight advantage for there qualifying efforts... Qualifying for a 2 foot advantage is BS, unless your a pro :) ... even 7
feet is not enough... We will try 12 feet for this series... 12 feet is not as much as you think...It increases the odds of a cleaner
start, less chance of a crash in the first corner... Even if the back of the field has to start around a turn...
Realistic Class :
I am seeing many 104's evolving back into 103's... This is even being done by Tamiya themselves with
the introduction of the 104W... And Tamiya is even reintroducing the 103... I've seen many 104 with 103 tires...
200mm widths... and even shortening the wheelbase slightly to match the 103...
This is totally getting away from the scale looks of the car and is making for an uneven playing field... If this
continues, the 104 with it's cool scale looks will become extinct... Simply limiting the width of the Realistic class
to 180mm will eliminate 103's and 104's with wider tires...
And since this is a realistic class... pit stops will continue...
You can not pit on the first or last lap...
You must pit twice during the race...
If you did not pit twice, you will receive zero points... unless your car breaks after the 8th lap and you are unable
to make the pit stops... in this case you will receive the points as if you finished last...
for example... Your car breaks an arm in lap 13 and you have only pitted once... you will not recieve a DNF
but you will still receive last place points even though you did not pit twice...
No driving through racers because you THINK you are ahead of them.
With 2 stops in the race there is no way of knowing who is where.
No driver should have to move out of the way... clean passing all the time...
The whole point of pit stops is to pit when you have a car or cars ahead of you that are slowing you down...
If you choose to pit in the first 2 minutes of the race to get it out of the way... then you have 8 minutes to deal with passing traffic...
If a car is obviously lapping you, then move over... if your not sure, then hold your line and let them make the pass...
Open Class :
Then there is the 2nd camp that feeds on pure performance...
And given the nature of real F1, this is kinda of what it's all about... So I can truly appreciate it...
Restricting the width to 200mm allows 103 type chassis cars with foams ( or rubber ) to run but excludes
someone from converting a 235mm pan car into a F1 car...
In this class it's all about how much power you can handle.. ESC settings are open
as well, but I can't imagine someone adding boost to a 13.5 motor on a 2WD chassis :)
Most of the tracks in this series I would say are medium traction... There is a limit to how much
power you can lay on the track...
Pit stops are not necessary...